International Sommelier David Biraud, on Wine & Food

13 April 2011

David Biraud is the Chef Sommelier at Hôtel de Crillon in Paris, France, soon to be chef sommelier at the new Mandarin Oriental in Paris, France - and more recently the winner of the Peter Lehmann Wines Shiraz European Sommelier Award.

We asked David some questions to give us an insight into the world of an international Sommelier, and his views on food & wine generally...

How & why did you become a Sommelier?

I intended to cook, but after studying cooking, I added a “Mention sommellerie” in Bordeaux Talence School.

After that I decided to choose the sommelier job, because it's interesting to meet the winemakers, select their wines, and can highlight them in a restaurant.
We are ambassadors of the wineries and we try to give maximum pleasure to our customers.

What attributes do you believe make a great Sommelier?

Professionalism, humility, seriousness, psychology with the customer and a touch of humor.

What advice could you give for serving wine? E.g. Temperature, Decanter, Glassware, anything else…

A must is to always serve wine (whites and reds) a little cooler, and use large glass decanters first to make them up to temperature. It’s a shame to taste the wines too warm to miss the subtlety of certain wines.

What is the most memorable wine you’ve enjoyed – & why?

Cheval Blanc 1947 in magnum & Yquem 1893, at the Arpège restaurant when I was commis sommelier, my first job in Paris. Great moment!

If you weren’t a Sommelier what would you be doing?

A Chef, I presume. But very difficult to answer.

As a restaurant patron, what kind of details upset you in a restaurant?

The abscence of friendliness and warmth of the staff.

Do you prefer to match wine to food, or food to wine?

I prefer food to wine, because I always start by making food purchases

Are there any rules people should follow when matching food and wine?

Think first of all to identify the different flavors of the dish and then find them in the styles of wines you have in your cellar. The agreement is a question of balance between the wine and the dish.

If you were to go out for dinner anywhere in the world, where would you go?

To Tokyo

Which wine style/grape variety does Australia do best?

Shiraz

What is your favourite wine region in Australia?

Barossa Valley

Are any Australian wineries represented in your personal cellar?

Peter Lehmann, Charles Melton, Penfold’s, Torbreck.

What is your favourite Peter Lehmann Shiraz & suggested food match?

The Stonewell Shiraz, and I imagine a pigeon cooked “à la goutte de sang” (bloody), stuffed with foie gras & a black olives sauce, and crispy new potatoes.